From time to time we take equipment for trade in on new equipment purchases. We make every effort to determine the condition of the equipment and will only take trade-ins on equipment that appears to be in good working condition. That being said all equipment is sold in “as is condition.”
Table Saw: Powermatic 66 Three Phase
Great working condition
Jointer: Grizzly G0490
Lightly used, looks great
Veneers and edge banding coming very soon.
Edge banding is used to cover the exposed sides of materials such as plywood, particle board or MDF, increasing durability and giving the appearance of a solid or more valuable material. Common substitutes for edgebanding include face frames or molding.
It’s tough to get surfaced stock
thicker than 13/16-in. from 1-in.
rough stock. Plan to lose 3/16-in.
(1/4-in.on thicker stock) when you
plane a roughsawn board smooth.
We’re finally live. Please check back often as we’ll be updating the site frequently and adding our online store. We currently have more than 100 varieties of lumber, exotic and domestic in stock. We are available to help you mill your lumber, sand it and even deliver.
Most of the hardwood lumber in the United States and Canada is graded according to the rules established by the National Hardwood Lumber Association (NHLA). In fact, the NHLA grading rules form the basis for much of the international hardwood lumber trade. The standard grades of hardwood lumber as defined by the NHLA (in descending order of quality) are FAS, FAS 1-Face (F1F), Selects, No. 1 Common, No. 2A Common, No. 2B Common, Sound Wormy, No. 3A Common, and No. 3B Common. In practice, some of the above grades are rarely used in the commercial trade and others are typically combined. For example, FAS and FAS 1-Face are usually combined and sold as “Face And Better”, FAS and Selects as “Sel and Better”, No. 1 Common and Selects as “No. 1 Common and Better”, and No. 2A Common and 2B Common as “No. 2 Common”. The grade of Sound Wormy is rarely used commercially.
Grading is based on the size and number of clear cuttings that can be obtained from a board when it is cut up and used for furniture or other products. The higher grades require wider and longer cuttings of clear wood than the lower grades. The specified clear face yield is also realized in a smaller number of cuttings with the higher grades. In the lower grades, the larger number of cuttings permitted provide more leeway in cutting between defects to realize the yield. With a few exceptions, grade is determined from the worst side of a board.
The surface measure of a board is used to determine the number of cuttings permitted for a given grade. For example, the FAS grade specifies a minimum size of 4″ x 5′ or 3″ x 7′ for cuttings taken from a board that is at least 6″ wide and 8′ long. The maximum number of cuttings is nominally four to produce a clear-face yield of 83 1/3 percent. If the surface area of the board is greater than 6 square feet, an additional cutting is allowed if the yield can be raised to 91 2/3 percent.
In selecting wood for a woodworking project, consider the size of the boards required. In many situations, lower grades are a more economical choice than the higher grades; in particular, consider using Select or No 1. Common grade boards rather than FAS if a relatively larger number of small, clear pieces are required.
Note that unlike softwood grades, hardwood grades do not indicate the strength of the board. Another difference is hardwood grading does not require a certified or licensed grader. Purchasing lumber from well-established reputable sources increases your chances of consistently obtaining accurately graded lumber.
BF Board feet
KD Kiln Dried
RL Random lengths
RW Random widths
RLW Random lengths and widths
S1S Surfaced one side
S2S Surfaced two sides
S4S Surfaced four sides
We carry numerous supplies and accessories for the hobbyist including glue, screws, sandpaper drawer slides etc. Come on in and have a look at our large stock of tools, supplies, lumber and equipment.
In This Video You’ll Learn About:
- Distressing alder
- Highlighting distressed marks with glaze
- Blotch-free staining with dye to achieve a custom color
- Glazing to create color tone over dyed wood
Since alder is such an easy wood to shape and distress for rustic woodworking projects, it’s no wonder that it’s the most popular choice for custom projects like rustic cabinets, doors, and tables.
The downside to the wood is that good ol’ oil based and water based stains look hideous on alder when applied right to bare wood because they blotch unpredictably. Is that bad? No, not exactly. It works, yes. But the appearance lacks visual finesse — and I’d be remiss if I didn’t do my part to share how staining alder can be done better.
Fortunately, there’s a better way to create a distressed rustic, yet graceful, looking wood finish on alder wood projects.
It’s called glazing.
Glazing is pretty easy to do: apply a dark gel stain after you’ve sealed the wood with one coat of clear sealer. (Note: or get some actual glaze instead of gel stain . . . but gel stain is easier to find at a retailer and gets the job done).
Glazing is a great trick for all kinds of color control on your projects, not just rustic ones. But on projects like cabinet doors with detailed profiles and other nooks and crannies, or in the case of a rustic furniture project with distress dents, dings, and cuts, the glazing action highlights them. It really enhances the look
You’ll see in the video above.
With this technique, you’re in full control of the final color. Therefore, I’ve demonstrated this on two different alder cabinet doors: one natural color, and one dyed with a deep reddish brown cinnamon color. Both are distressed and glazed.
Post ’em below!